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February 04, 2008

On the Runway: Duckie Brown Fall/Winter 2008

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All Photos: Getty Images

Most runway shows operate on the idea of creating excitement for the clothes by providing a club-like atmosphere complete with thumping techno, hot men and chic clothes. But Duckie Brown turned the usual show on its head. While the audience waited patiently for the show to begin, the DJ blared a Roxy-style soundtrack until the first model's foot hit the runway. The 21 looks trotted down the runway in complete silence—save for the hum of the heater and the occasional cell phone ring.

What ensued was a beautiful moody collection of classics (two button suits, shearling coats, narrow trousers and a ton of pinstripe, herringbone, windowpane check) with a dash of modern fabrics and schoolboy elements (oversize knit caps, nylon coats and backpacks). And the designers through in a couple curve balls with their sheer, lace sweater and extensively beaded top that had a chainmail like effect.

Most of the casual shirts and sweaters played with proportion, extending well below the coat and the belt, elongating the torso. And the more classic button downs continued with the trend of the hidden placket—skipping the tie altogether. The trench (pictured above) was crafted from a stiff fabric (nylon?) that gave it a crinkled paper-like appearance that earned oohs and aahhs from the audience.

Overall, it was a wonderful collection of beautifully tailored menswear with which Duckie Brown has become synonymous.


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